Robinson Adventures 2024 - Cook Islands Here We Come!

 The Robinsons in the Cook Islands

 

Wednesday, May 29, 2024

We were on our way to the Cook Islands in the South Pacific!! Our plane left Toronto about 4 pm and we had a very smooth flight to Vancouver. Following a short layover, we boarded our next flight, this one heading across the Pacific to Auckland, New Zealand. To say the least, it was a long flight. A couple of movies and a couple of naps filled the time, along with some lovely food that was served along the way. (Yes, the food was excellent!) We had crossed the dateline en route so Thursday vanished for us and we landed in Auckland on Friday. We had a few hours in Auckland, time spent in an airport lounge, before we boarded our third flight, this time to the island of Rarotonga, the largest island in the Cook Islands. I have to admit that by this time we were getting pretty tired of flying … and indeed, pretty tired generally. But we were not there yet. One more flight awaited us, this one a short flight to Aitutaki. En route, we crossed back over the dateline so It was early Thursday evening when we finally arrived at our destination. Confusing to say the least. And it was pitch dark because we are much closer to the equator here than at home. Lovely resort staff picked us up and transported us to our resort accommodation (they had even arranged a wheelchair for me). Etu Moana (which means blue starfish) would be our resort home for the next several days. A beautiful charcuterie platter awaited us at our cabin.

The covered porch was a perfect place to enjoy the food and the pleasant evening. Before long though, we fell into bed. Early darkness made it easy to go to sleep. We both slept soundly from about 8 pm until 9 the next morning.

 

Friday, May 31 2024

We awoke on Friday morning to bright sunshine and a wonderful view of the resort pool as well as the beach and coral-filled sea. We entered the day leisurely, enjoying a late breakfast poolside. Again, very gracious and helpful staff served our food and answered questions. It was lovely. Following breakfast we explored more of the resort as well as making a trip to the beach. We were pleased that the sand was quite well packed and that the walker would roll to the water. We returned to our cabin with the plan that we would go swimming when the tide came in … but that plan did not materialize!

 

Instead, we headed out in our rental car to explore the island. Aitutaki is quite a small island with one major road that follows the sea around the island.  But there were also several secondary roads that took us off the main track and into some seaside communities, marinas, resort lodges, and a few agricultural areas. Chickens, roosters and occasional goats dotted the landscape as we drove along. 

We also stopped to take photos of the wide array of flowers that were in full bloom. What a beautiful landscape along the way. 

Occasionally we wandered down some secondary roads – most were rugged at best, even dirt tracks with knee high grass growing between the tracks. Some led frightening close to the water’s edge. But the most interesting secondary road was the one that actually crossed the runway of the local airport. We stopped and gazed at the sky before quickly crossing the tarmac. Other drivers were much more nonchalant as they crossed. I guess they had all done it before.

 

There were very few cars on the road but a myriad of motorbikes, many with a driver and a passenger. Clearly, there is no law requiring helmets as the riders’ hair blew in the wind. I will  admit that the typical speed is far lower than we experience at home. Nonetheless, it was a little off putting to see the lack of helmets.

 

We arrived home in the late afternoon and had a wonderful visit with Tiffany who, with her husband Jeff, manage this resort. They have managed several resorts in various parts of the world and saw this one as an opportunity for a new experience in a new country. They are fully enjoying their time here. Coincidentally, they have also managed resorts in Malawi, two of which we have bookings. Such a small world. We are having dinner with them on Monday night to learn more about what lies ahead in Malawi.

 

More of our beautiful charcuterie platter served as dinner tonight. It is amazing that we have been here for a full day and never made it into the pool or the ocean. We will make up for that tomorrow when we have a full day cruise with snorkelling at the centre of the activities.

 

But for now, it is once again time for bed. Good night.

 

 

Saturday, June 1, 2024

 

Today, we enjoyed breakfast on our deck. We have a lovely view of the resort pool, the sand beach and the blue-green lagoon water that laps at the shore. We were preparing for a full day cruise (Teking Cruises) on the lagoon that featured several stops for snorkelling. Soon after breakfast, we collected our snorkel gear and donned our bathing suits. The tour van was picking us up at the front of our resort.

 

Aitutaki Island is surrounded by a reef which protects the lagoon waters inside the reef. No large ships can cross the reef which makes this lagoon very safe and clean for many species of tropical fish as well as people engaging in all sorts of activities – fishing, snorkelling, scuba, kite-surfing and, of course, swimming. The water is a deep blue/green shade and absolutely shimmers in bright sunlight.

 

There were 16 of us on the boat along with driver, Peter, a master at the wheel. Most of our companions were from Australia and New Zealand. We were certainly from the furthest away. Quickly, it became a very cohesive group which made the day a lot of fun. Peter skillfully manoeuvred our craft around the coral that was just below the water. He clearly knew the lagoon well and stopped in several places where he knew there would be interesting fish.

 

Our first stop was to see several giant trevali. They swam around and under our boat, clearly expecting food. Peter did not let them down and threw pieces of bread into the water. The trevali often broke the surface trying to capture the bread. It was fun to see these giant fish up close. Several of our companions donned their snorkel gear and joined the trevali in the water.

 

Our second snorkelling stop was a location that featured angel fish and zebra fish. 

Like the trevali they swarmed around the boat looking for food. Almost everyone plunged into the water to get a closer look. Sadly, I was not able to snorkel from this boat due to the lack of steps to get back out of the water. Happily, many species of fish swam close to the surface so I was able to see quite a few.

 

Our third stop was at Honeymoon Island, a huge sandbar that had developed over time. If desired, it was possible to walk about 2 kilometres to the other end of the sandbar where Peter and the rest of us met the walkers. There was also an opportunity to snorkel here in the crystal clear water. It was amazing how far the boat had to travel to get to the other end of the sand bar, far out into the lagoon to avoid the sloping sand. It was from here that we could see the massive breakers just beyond the reef. 

Amazing power … and we were so protected. Those of us who remained on the boat were able to watch a kite surfing lesson in progress. Apparently, this is a premier location for kite-surfing due to the high winds and the protected water. This is the beginning of the windy season and crowds are expected to arrive on Aitutuki soon. More snorkelling for those who were not tired out already.

 

We moved on to our fourth. It was lunch time!! We all disembarked on a beautifully treed island for a delicious meal of fish, salads, grilled banana and papaya. I think there was dessert as well but the main course was enough  for me.

 

Aside from lunch, the highlight on this island, One Foot Island, was the bird life. Especially the red-tailed tropic birds. The females nested under the trees and quite in the open. Tiny fluffy white chicks were nearby but neither mom nor babies were concerned in the least about our close proximity. 

Of course, cameras were busy. Close-up shots abounded. At the other end of the scale, frigate birds in large numbers flew overhead. Frigate birds are known to be thieves, They fly overhead awaiting a smaller bird who has caught a fish. Then they swoop and steel the fish right out of that bird’s beak. Needless to say, other birds are wary about frigates.

 

Another interesting thing about One Foot Island is that there is a commemorative tree planted by each of the South Pacific Island Prime Minister (British government systems). There are several species of trees in the collection and each tree has a plaque indicating where it came from.

 

It was time to head back to shore. Peter did the final head count. Yes, there were still 16 passengers!! It was the end of a remarkable experience.

 

Back on land, we were delivered back to our various resorts and Jim and I headed directly to our cabin for a snooze. Fresh sea air and constant sunshine can tire a person out!!

 

A little later we headed out for a light meal at a nearby outdoor pub, Paradise Cove. It was a beautiful evening and there did not seem to be any bugs to bug us. We each had a beverage to start, a pina colada for both of us. The menu was small and we both chose prawns and vegetable in sweet chili sauce accompanied by rice. Delicious!! Now, time for bed!

 

Sunday, June 2, 2024

 

Our morning started early today because we wanted to go to church. Our previous experiences have created wonderful memories of how Christian worship is conducted in Polynesian culture. We have previously attended services in Fiji and Bora Bora as well as the beginning of a service on an island in the Tuomotos. Music is abundant; four part harmony throughout the congregation; various leaders whose voices are heard from the pew and others join in. Services are often conducted in two languages, local and English. Women wear white. Children are in the congregation. Visitors are warmly received.

 

We were recommended to attend the 10 am service at Cook Island Christian Church. It is the oldest Christian church on the island (1821). 

It was raining but worshippers still arrived on their motorbikes.

Today’s service was particularly long. Music was abundant and beautiful, sung in loud voice. The service started with a baptism and then proceeded with the regular components of a service – scripture, prayer, announcements, sermon. We were impressed with the fluency on the congregation in their own language and in English. Without pause, the service was conducted in both languages. Music was abundant; children were present (not always well behaved – one mom had 6 children with her); visitors were welcomed. Women wore white … and so did the men. It was amazing to see so much white in one place. (I also wore white.)

 

After the service ended, a gentleman approached us and invited us to remain for a communion service. Of course, we said yes. We were the only visitors who stayed. The communion service was very familiar in the way the elements were blessed and distributed. It was solemn and short. We were thanked at the end for taking the time to remain in place.

 

Since it was pouring rain outside we decided to tour more of the island rather than try to swim or snorkel. It was a lovely, if wet, afternoon. We headed away from the shoreline road and into the interior of the island. It was quite hilly with some very steep climbs. We came upon a lookout over the lagoon with the reef in the far distance. What a view!!

 

As we travelled along the secondary roads, we discovered some rural properties that had substantial plantings in well attended gardens. Most of the crops were not familiar to us judging by the shapes of the leaves. In other areas banana trees and coconut palms were abundant. (Sidebar – bananas here are delicious and sweet because they mature of the tree before harvesting.) Along our way, we encountered many nosy roosters and their loyal hen companions. We also saw several more goats and one large pig. Apparently goats and chickens that are not penned are open to anyone who chooses to capture them. That said, the chicken meat is pretty tough to eat. Goats that are tied up belong to a nearby household.

 

We found beauty in this rural landscape. We were particularly impressed with wide array of flowering trees and plants. This is the beginning of autumn here and yet, the flowers are still brilliant.

 

And still it rained. We had lunch, fish and chips, at a ‘take-away’ stand and headed home. Back to the comfort of our resort cabin and some leftovers from lunch. No swimming today. We are in and cozy!!

Monday, June 3, 2024

We decided to remain at the lodge today. The sun was bright; the water was sparkling and this was our last full day in Aitutaki. We spent much of the morning on our deck. Such a beautiful view to behold!!

Correspondence took up part of the day. Then we went to the beach. Our goal was to do some snorkelling but the tide was out and the water was too shallow for swimming. We would have had to walk halfway to the reef to find deep water. Instead, the fish came to us! It was remarkable to stand in the water, sometimes, ankle deep and be surrounded by tropical fish, hermit crabs, sea cucumbers, and the occasional swoosh of birds diving for food. 

A comical side of this ... I took my folding stool into the water with me, thinking I would be more comfortable sitting rather than standing in this shallow water. Not such a good idea ... As soon as I sat down the legs of the stool sunk into the soft sand below. I was almost sitting on the ocean bed itself. With some large effort, I managed to stand up again and pull the stool out of its holes. Jim and I were laughing pretty hard as I made my way back to the shore.

We gradually made it across the beach and back to our cabin. safely installed on the deck, Jim took a camera and went back to the water. He had spotted a blue starfish in the shallow water. Our resort is named for this beautiful creature. And sure enough, it was still there and Jim got some great pictures.

By then, it was time to get ready for dinner. We were going to the Pacific Resort with Tiffany and Jeff Gush, the managers at our resort. We wanted to pick their brains about Malawi since they had lived there and loved it for several years. Dress code was one above casual so I had an opportunity to actually wear the only dress in my suitcase.

We took their dune buggy down the road to our destination and were seated at a lovely table just in time for the spectacular sunset over the water. We all ordered a before dinner drink and thoroughly enjoyed the beginning of a long and lively conversation. Dinner with wine was delicious and so was dessert. (Yes, we all indulged!!)

We learned so much about the culture and the highlights of Malawi. Jeff especially was able to give us some valuable tips about how to travel there. Both Jeff and Tiffany shared stories about places they had visited and adventures they had had. They have lived in seven different countries, managing resorts in most of them. In retirement (not yet), they are looking at the possibility of returning to Africa as a permanent home ... either Botswana where Jeff was born, or Malawi.

The evening ended with a pleasant ride back to Etu Moana (which means blue starfish) and our final night's sleep in our cabin. A delightful way to end a wonderful adventure!