7. Zagreb, Croatia to Trieste, Italy

Tuesday, June 27, 2023

Zagreb to Budapest

 

We got in the car about 10 am and … oops!! I discovered that a tiny tap with the front left corner of the car had done more damage than I thought it had. No one examining the car when we turn it in would miss the blue paint that had affixed itself firmly around the headlight and bumper. So we decided that we should address the problem before leaving Croatia. Fortunately there was a very helpful agent at the Enterprise office at the Zagreb airport. She knew exactly what we needed to do in terms of paper work and gave us an estimate of the cost to repair the damage. We are insured through our Mastercard and they have dealt with Mastercard many times with no issue. That was good news. (The side benefit of this unexpected stop was that we got to see the very modern Zagreb Airport. It is shaped like a flying saucer and has a large section at one end that looks very like a booster. It was an interesting and very busy place.)

 

We left the airport about noon and finally got on the freeway that would take us to Budapest,. We watch a TV show called FBI International which is set in Budapest so it has long been a curiosity for us. Merely a three hour drive away.

 

This was the first time on this trip that we have chosen a freeway route. And we are glad we did. The road was good and the traffic was light most of the way. As with most places, road construction is done in the summer. There were three significant areas where traffic was diverted going both directions in the same two lanes. Even so, the trip went smoothly.

 

We could feel rain in the air and indeed, about halfway along it began to pour. Laughing, we realized we did not know how to work the windshield wipers. It took a few minutes to work it out but soon we could turn them on and off efficiently. Let it rain!!!

 

Although we were on the freeway, we were still very aware of the change in landscape. The mountains we have travelled on for days disappeared in the distance. Rolling hills took their place and vast fields of various crops, especially hay, potatoes and corn. That was quite a contrast to the tiny plots of crop land we had seen in Croatia. The history of Hungary reflects a more socialist/communist philosophy than other countries we have visited on this trip.

 

Where there was no agriculture, the roadsides were filled with large and thick forests. The trees were amazing and, as the warning sign suggested, we felt that any moment a deer could bounce out of the dense vegetation. Fortunately , none did.

 

Several communities could be seen from the roadway, most looking quite tidy and well maintained.

 

We crossed into Hungary at a river. The only thing that alerted us to the border was a small sign with the Hungarian flag on it. As part of the EU neither Croatia nor Hungary have a formal border crossing with other EU countries. No more stamps in the passports. Bosnia and Herzegovina and Montenegro are not yet part of the EU so more traditional border systems are still in place in those countries.

 

The highway was interesting to drive. Speed limits varied greatly. The limit for a car is 130 Kph. The limit for a truck is 100 Kph. There is a huge amount of truck traffic between Zagreb and Budapest. Fast cars tended to travel in the left lane and trucks generally remained in the right lane. Those of us who were reluctant to drive as fast as 130 remained in the right lane, having to change lanes every time as we approached a truck ahead of us. At each exit along the highway, the speed for everyone was reduced to 100 and sometimes even to 80. If nothing else, the driver had to be alert.

 

As we approached Budapest, of course, the traffic increased. The roadsides transitioned from agriculture to businesses. In many ways, it was like approaching Toronto. It was also late afternoon by the time we arrived and there were predictable traffic slowdowns along the way.

Once we were in the city, we joined long lines of traffic moving in various directions. Thanks to Jim’s excellent navigating we only made one wrong turn before arriving at our hotel in the centre of the city. Budapest is a beautiful city straddling the Danube. Old buildings with classic European architecture sit side by side with modern structures that reach for the sky. We are looking forward to doing extensive exploring tomorrow.

 

Tonight though calls for Hungarian meal at a nearby Hungarian restaurant. We thoroughly enjoyed the food and the service at Cafe Kor, just down the street from our hotel. Before we went for dinner were walked to the local square about a block away. When we turned the corner, we were both speechless with the beauty of the main cathedral in Budapest.  It was truly breathtaking and we look forward to learning more about tomorrow.

 

Jim, of course, had done research on the various restaurants in close proximity to our hotel (H2O Hotel) and identified Café Kor as the most desirable for service and for selections of Hungarian food. Although totally booked solid, the maitre d’ managed to find a little table for two and made us feel very comfortable in an extremely crowded restaurant. We both indulged in traditional Hungarian selections: me with beef stroganoff and Jim with goose liver with blueberry jam, apple and potatoes. Fine glasses of Hungarian red wine accompanied the meal and dessert followed: arany galuska (balls of yeast dough, rolled in melted butter and crushed walnuts, layered and baked until golden; served with walnut cream; and somloi galuska, the most Hungarian dessert,  three sponge cakes with chocolate sauce and whipped cream. A delicious cappuccino completed the meal. We had a pleasant walk along the street back to our hotel.

Wednesday, June 28, 2023

Budapest, Hungary

 

It was a late night last night so we slept in a bit this morning. We made it to the hotel restaurant just in time for breakfast. We are becoming very familiar with European breakfasts – lots of egg, bread, jams and jellies, fresh fruit, yogurt, cheese, juice and, of course, coffee. Each day we choose something a little different so we have sampled most of the options that are available. The array of bread products is amazing and every one of them has been delicious.

 

Out on the street, we began our search for the Hop On Hop Off bus. We had been given some information about where to find it, not that far from our hotel. Where we thought it would be is not where it was at all. After quite a bit of wandering, we finally found the distinctive red signs and knew we were in the right spot.

 

Yesterday, when we entered the city, we were struck by the beauty of so many buildings. Various architectural styles were evident in old and new buildings. As we travelled around the city today on the bus, we continued to be amazed at the array of buildings and how beautiful they are.

 

We started the tour at the back of the Basilica, the main cathedral in town. First of all, it is enormous. And it has been well maintained over several hundred years. The steeples rise high into the air and the dome roof is vast and breathtaking.

 

We were fortunate to find seats on the upper deck of the bus. It always provides better opportunities for photos. The headsets, predictably, were quite frail but the accompanying information was available in at least 10 languages. That somehow reflects the range of visitors that come to Budapest. We have seen a much broader array of skin colour, ethnicity and language here than we have seen anywhere else we have visited on this trip.

 

As we travelled the streets of Budapest, we passed by several significant shopping areas. Most advertisements were printed in English and many brand names were familiar to us from home. There were certainly lots of tourist shops for anyone who would like to buy a souvenir to take home.

 

Several significant churches were pointed out as travelled. Their spires reached for the sky. I am sure there must have be ethereal conversations among the peaks of each church.  One synagogue was pointed out, apparently the second largest in all of Europe. The building was large and beautiful.

 

We saw a palace along the river, enormous and ornate. And across the river were the government buildings. Budapest is divided into two parts by the Danube River. One side is Pest and the other side of the river is Buda. We have not learned whether there is any significance to naming the two sides. Our impression was that they had many of the same features so we are not sure what to think.

 

Three significant bridges span the water. Each one has a distinctive architectural style and a historic tale to go with it. I just want to say that all three bridges are very striking. There are also several other bridges which appear to be much more ordinary and efficiently enable traffic to  pass from one side to the other.

 

Budapest, like many other cities we have visited, has made being ‘green’ a high priority. Tree-lined streets provide shade and shelter to the people on the streets. For those of us upstairs on the bus, it was necessary to watch for low-hanging branches. As beautiful as the streets are, the trees did get in the way of some great photo opps. There were also several large and beautiful parks and squares, with gardens filled with vivid flowers.

 

Many of the downtown streets are lined with outdoor restaurants. Umbrellas protect diners from the elements. Whether sipping a cold drink during the day or eating dinner at night, outdoor dining is clearly a mainstay of the restaurant industry in Budapest.

 

Jim and I are faithful followers of a TV series called FBI International which is based in Budapest. We have been enjoying travelling along some of the main streets that are featured in the various plotlines. Today, we came upon a crew of directors, photographers,  make up artists and anyone else that might be involved in a tv or film production. We will watch closely during the next season to see if the set we saw today was, I fact, part of the FBI programming. What a coincidence that would be.

 

During the afternoon, we went on a one hour boat cruise on the Danube. The commentary on the boat pointed out many of the same things we had seen on the bus. But, the perspective from the water was quite different, being able to see sides of buildings not visible from the street. Many of the buildings were just as beautiful from the water as from the land.

 

After the cruise was over, a lovely young man who worked for the cruise company assisted us in getting a taxi. Sadly, for our convenience and easy booking, Uber is not legal in Hungary so we had to rely on a more traditional taxi system. Our ‘friend’ called for a taxi and waited with us until the taxi arrived. He was lovely and we were grateful.

 

Back at our hotel, we had time for a rest before heading out for dinner. We went to another restaurant tonight, also close to our hotel. It was too cool tonight to be comfortable eating outside. The atmosphere inside was delightful with live music and delicious food. Once again we asked for the most Hungarian foods on the menu. We had duck liver pate as a starter and chicken and dumplings and duck with potatoes as our mains. We sipped Hungarian wine and enjoyed a sweet cucumber salad that accompanied our meals. We shared a dessert, somloi galuska, which was quite different from the one we had last night. Totally delicious though.

 

On the way back to our hotel, we went by the Basilica. It is so beautiful under a clear night sky with spotlights highlighting its main features. Of course, we took a picture.

 

Back in our room, time for bed. Tomorrow will be another full day as we continue to explore the Balkans.

 

Thursday, June 29, 2023

Road to Bratislava

 

We set off from Budapest, the first time in two days that we had been in the car. As a driver, it was necessary to remind myself about the different rules of the road in Hungary. First of all, pedestrians ALWAYS have the right of way, no matter what. No right turn on red lights (unless there is a little green arrow). When a light is red, the yellow comes on just before it turns green. When the yellow light appears it is time to begin to move the car forward slowly until the green light appears when you are to put the gas pedal to the floor and rush through the intersection. Failure to do so brings angry horn honking from the cars behind. Also, there are separate lights for right and left turns. So many signals to watch for … no time to think.

 

We drove through the centre of Budapest, admiring the various architectural styles. One of the building rules from earlier times was that all buildings must be four stories high and be the same height as the buildings on either side. It certainly makes a uniform streetscape and all buildings look very much alike. The differentiation comes in the embellishments to the window frames and cornices. Flowers, flowing lines, geometric patterns, textural differences.

Somewhere in time, it was no longer necessary to limit buildings to four stories but they still needed to remain the same height. So, architects designed a way for there to be up to six stories, probably by lowering the ceilings inside the buildings so more floors could be added. Only recently have zoning rules changed to allow much higher buildings to be constructed. Slowly, skyscrapers are coming to Budapest.

 

One of the interesting places we passed by yesterday was a sculpture park where, historically, statues of all prominent figures were erected. Stalin, Hitler, Khrushchev and others were memorialized  and celebrated in the form of a statue. Over time, attitudes changed about several of the statues in the park and the statues were removed. Eventually, the whole concept was abandoned and the park was transformed into an architecturally fascinating activity centre. Walking trails that formed the perimeter were built on gentle slopes and became exercise paths for people. A water feature in the middle of the park had a fountain that invited people of all ages to cool off on a hot day. Various gardens and groves of trees reflect the city’s commitment to ‘green’. Well attended flower beds abound. As we drove past again today, we noted that there were literally hundreds of people in the park. As the day was hot, the water feature was especially popular with children and adults enjoying the spray of the fountain as a way of cooling off.

 

We found our way out of Budapest with only a couple of false turns and soon we were on the open road. We crossed the Danube on a bridge we had not travelled before. What a magnificent river!! Not surprisingly, we chose to drive on country roads and not the freeway. We were amazed at the volume of traffic coming into Budapest. We sailed past the stop and go traffic because there was very little traffic moving in our direction.

 

As we traveled, mountains gave way to foothills and eventually we were driving along reasonably flat roads. What a change!! We left the city behind and enjoyed a good old-fashioned country drive. Fields of various crops at various stages of development paralleled the road. Fields were small and full, trying to maximize the size of the crop in spite of the size of the field.

 

After an hour or so, we came again to the Danube River which winds its way through the countryside. It was here that we saw a huge and beautiful structure that was part ancient castle, part church and most evidently, part basilica. It was our parting view of Hungary.

 

As we crossed the bridge, we left Hungary and entered Slovakia. The only evidence of a border crossing was a small sign in the middle of the bridge that had both country flags on it. Once across the bridge, the abandoned customs and immigration buildings were there, no longer used as both countries are now part of the European Union EU). No big signs, no passport stamps, no big deal …

 

But there was an immediate change in the approach to agriculture. Rather than small fields, the fields in Slovakia were enormous. Jim estimated that at least one of the fields was about 70 acres large, just shy of the typical 100 acre farms in Ontario. The land was generally quite flat so it was possible to view the enormity of the fields. Fields of corn, fields of hay, fields of wheat, fields of barley, fields of beans and fields of sunflowers and more fields of sunflowers and then more fields of sunflowers!! We had to wonder how all the seeds from those sunflowers would be used.

 

Some of the wheat and much of the hay had already been harvested. Evidence of harvest came in the form of bales of hay or straw laying in the fields.

 

There was also one vast field where a new (perhaps second) crop had been planted. Water was a necessary component.

 

In places there were very large irrigation systems at work. There was a channel that paralleled the highway from which water was drawn and sprayed across the various crops, especially beans to prevent them from wilting in the bright and hot sunshine.

 

Highways are built with no shoulders or places to pull off. Traffic travels at 90 kilometers an hour in most places. That makes it very difficult to take photos. In the distance, we could see some gently rising slopes with regular parallel lines of crops rising up the hillside. We were curious. Finally, we saw a very small crossroad and we grabbed the opportunity to explore off the highway. (Of course we did!!) Driving along this narrow road with wheat on one side and sunflowers on the other, we came closer and closer to the rising hillside. The parallel lines were created from rows of grapevines, in some cases large and healthy vineyards. Besides grapes, other fruit trees were planted on the slopes. No fruit had formed on the trees as of yet but we think there were apple trees, cherry trees and perhaps some peaches.

It was a beautiful sight.

 

Soon this tiny road came to an end at what appeared to be private laneways. Houses were clustered into little villages, rather than spread out on each farm, quite a different way of life than farming in Ontario. We were disappointed we could not go further although having to go back to the main highway also meant we could continue toward Bratislava, our destination for today. Frequently there were fruit and vegetable stands along the roadway, especially in the small villages. Peaches, nectarines, watermelon, and black cherries as well as a range of vegetables were on offer. We could not resist and we now have a selection of fruit to enjoy.

 

And so we got to Bratislava. The traffic was amazing, cars, trucks and busses all crawling along the same narrow road. We joined the line and eventually made it to our hotel. What a lovely place, a Clarion Hotel. Jim does such a great job of finding very pleasant places to stay.

After the day on the road, we had dinner in the hotel and settled in for the evening.

 

Tomorrow brings a new day …

June 30, 2023/July 1, 2023

Bratislava, Slovakia

 

On Friday, we decided to spend most of the day at our hotel. We had photos to process, blog to write, plans to make, reservations to confirm. It just seemed like we needed a day to feel good about the rest of the trip. Remarkably it is less than a week before we get on our Adriatic cruise. Still lots to see and do before that.

 

Late in the day, we decided to go to a local restaurant for dinner. Jim is very adept at organizing Ubers so it was not many minutes before a car appeared and drove us to  nearby neighbourhood restaurant, Café/Restaurant Michaela, that specializes in Slovakian food. It was small and modest with an outdoor dining area right against the paved road. Our server spoke English so we were able to ask questions about the menu and get her advice about what the most authentic foods might be. She gave us some great information and each of the dishes we ordered were delicious.

 

Jim ordered a dish the featured small Slovakian sheep cheese dumplings and bacon, preceded by a fabulous homemade fish soup. Both dishes were delicious. Donna ordered a fresh tomato salad and pancakes with sauteed pork. The pork was folded into the pancake along with grated cheese and served with a salad on the side. I could not eat the entire pancake, it was just too big. So I offered it to Jim who enjoyed it as much as I did.

 

We were very excited about our meal and decided to visit a local market across the street in the morning and come back for lunch.

 

But alas … Saturday, Canada Day, had its own agenda for us. One of the things in Bratislava that we wanted to do was take the “tchoo-tchoo’” train city tour. We headed to the town square in Old Town Bratislava and found a terrific Italian market – cheeses, meats, olives, breads and many more things on display. It was fun to wander through and plan what to come back to get. Not the market we had planned to go to but this one was terrific.

 

We boarded the ‘tchoo-tchoo’ train for a half hour tour of the old section of Bratislava. 

The Old City has been transformed into a pedestrian area. No cars, bikes, scooters or delivery vans allowed. Only the tourist train. It was such a pleasant way to see the old buildings and hear some of the history of the area. There were loads of walking tours underway, each with a leader carrying a flag and sharing information. I was flabbergasted at how many people were in the area. But then, Jim reminded me it was a weekend and it is July, high tourist season. The commentary on our tour was outstanding, well paced and just enough information to keep us listening without being overwhelmed.

 

Once off the train, we headed to another nearby area where we would catch a bus for a longer tour of the larger city. Once again, the commentary was excellent and we were able to get a good feel for all that Bratislava has to offer.

 

Bratislava is built around a large hill. The castle sits at the very top of the hill and can be seen from many vantage points in the city. The first buildings in the city were built near the castle and as the city grew it descended the hill in all directions. Now, with a population of around 500,000 people, the city has reached the bottom of the hill and begun to spread out over the countryside. Of course, the newer areas feature more modern buildings, quite a contrast with the buildings near the castle and in the old town. This tour took us up to the castle where there was a 20 minute stop to give the riders a chance to get a better view of the castle and to go inside.

 

Because it was not very wheelchair friendly, I remained on the bus and read my book. Jim went off exploring. But not for long …

 

Suddenly there was some commotion in the courtyard. I did not pay much attention as I was busy reading but I should have …. The commotion was that someone had tripped on a bollard and fallen face first into the concrete. A crowd formed around the person; castle personnel called an ambulance and tried to find someone who knew this person. I was still reading until our driver came over to the bus and asked if that person was my husband. Ohhhhhhhh ….

 

Our day changed abruptly as we were whisked off to a hospital, Jim bleeding profusely from his nose and mouth. With sirens blaring, we tore along streets and through red lights until we arrived at the hospital.

 

They took Jim in immediately and helped me gather our things and go to the waiting room. They did a CT scan to see if there was any head trauma. Fortunately there was not but Jim’s nose was definitely broken. As in Waterloo Region, different hospitals treat certain specialties. And we were not at the ‘nose’ hospital. So, into another medical transport vehicle and off we went to Hospital Number 2, the nose hospital. Again, they took Jim in immediately and I was left to my own devices while he was assessed and treated. They got the bleeding stopped and packed his nose and cleaned him up a bit. He looked a lot better than at the beginning of this drama. He was released from care and we headed back to the same hotel we had checked out of earlier in the day.

 

Fortunately, the hotel had a room available … the very same room we had already been in for two nights. It was good to be in a familiar setting. Jim is feeling ok and actually eating a bit. I ordered a club sandwich from room service because I did not want to leave him alone.

 

We were supposed to have gone to Vienna early this evening but that plan was set aside. The hotel in Vienna has agreed to postpone our booking by one day so, assuming we get there tomorrow, we have a nice place waiting for us.

 

Early to bed tonight. We’ll see about tomorrow, tomorrow.

 

 

July 2, 2023

Bratislava, Slovakia to Vienna, Austria

 

It was a slow start this morning. Jim had slept upright in a chair last night. Extra bedding was delivered to our room so he could be as comfortable as possible. The clock ticked on through the morning and we were quite late getting to breakfast. As usual, it was an amazing spread of foods, both hot and cold and enough selection to serve anyone’s palate. We enjoyed our meal.

 

Then it was back to the room, a quick pack and off to Vienna. Farewell Bratislava. What a great city!

 

Within 15 minutes out of Bratislava, we crossed the border from Slovakia into Austria. No big deal, simply a small sign that had the word Austria on it and the circle of stars, the symbol of the EU. A few metres later was the abandoned customs building but other than that you would not know that you has crossed a border.

 

The landscape looked very similar, vast fields of the same crops we saw a few days ago – wheat, beans, corn, sunflowers and vineyards. It was a very pleasant drive through the countryside. We passed through several villages (roundabouts guided us along) and that is where we noticed differences between the two countries. First of all, the language on signs was now German with very little English. Also the housing was quite different – small cottages along the road, many architecturally identical but painted different colours. No large apartment blocks and very few multi-story buildings. Some of the villages still had a city gate to pass through, complete with a portcullis. One town actually had its original stone walls, beautiful to see, that it had been maintained over centuries.

 

As Vienna was only a short distance from Bratislava (about 1.5 hour drive), before too long we began to see signs of a larger city. Roads became multi-laned; traffic signals controlled the flow and large businesses and industrial complexes became part of the landscape. We passed by the Vienna Airport, a very large complex. We also passed through an enormous collection of wind turbines, hard at work. Fortunately there was not much traffic on the road.

 

When we finally reached Vienna, it felt like any other large city worldwide. More traffic, streets lined with business of all sorts (as it is Sunday, in Vienna, the stores remain closed), complex traffic signals, road construction and more bicycles and pedestrians – baby strollers, dogs on leashes, scooters, and one-way street systems. Fortunately, we had GPS as our guide and we quite easily found our hotel. It took us over half an hour from where we entered the city.

 

The hotel staff were very welcoming and helpful and it did not take long to get settled in our room, very pleasant and light. Jim was very uncomfortable and went to bed for a prolonged nap. And I have busied myself with writing, managing photos and, truthfully, also a short nap.

 

Early in the evening, we went to a nearby restaurant for dinner. Being in Austria it only seemed sensible that we would eat Austrian specialties. I ordered a pork schnitzel which was delicious. Jim had Tafelspitz, a traditional meal of beef soup made from boiling the beef, followed by boiled beef and oxbone marrow, accompanied by an applesauce and horseradish mixture and a mild mustard sauce along with a piece of bread for the marrow. Unusual to our palates but deeply a part of the Austrian cuisine, Jim thoroughly enjoyed it!

 

Back at the hotel, it was time to call it a day. We were both tired and we knew we had a busy day planned for tomorrow.

 

Monday, July 3, 2023

Vienna, Austria

 

Our plans changed right away this morning. This was the day that the previous doctor in Bratislava had recommended that Jim see another doctor for a check up on his nose. Remarkably enough, Jim was able to go online and book an appointment with a specialist for 11 am today!! So we had breakfast and spent a couple of hours relaxing in our room. While Jim was at the doctor’s I continued to work on our photo book (I am determined to have it finished before we get home.) When Jim returned he reported that the doctor was pleased with his healing but it is going to take a couple more days before it is totally functional again. The doctor put some more packing into his nostrils, less than before but still enough to be uncomfortable. Pain killers and antibiotics are a steady diet for a few days.

 

We took an Uber to the pick-up spot for the Big Bus tour of Vienna. The weather was lovely and sitting up top gave us the best views. Of course, we took lots of photos. Vienna is a large city with a lot of history and culture embedded in it. The bus took us past museums, the opera house, concert halls, parliament buildings and government offices, a palace, homes of well known composers,

many churches, streets filled with shops and restaurants of all kinds (this is quite a multicultural city), parks, of course, the Danube, an amusement park and much more. Steeples and domes dominate the sky in the old area of town. Statues and monuments are common at intersections and in front of buildings. Most buildings are five stories high and are architecturally similar. Many have fancy cement embellishments around the windows and doorways. Architecture in the newer parts of town looks remarkably similar to modern architecture in North America. Tall skyscrapers, lots of glass, interesting shapes (not all tall and rectangular).

 

We were impressed with the diverse transit system we saw as we travelled – busses, trolleys, streetcars and light rail. Designated bicycle and pedestrian paths. There were also hundreds of scooters ridden by all sorts of folks, young and old. In addition, there were horses and carriages, small open vehicles (a bit like golf carts) traditional taxis and a well used Uber system.

We were also impressed with the commitment to ‘green’ that Vienna has made. As in other cities we have visited, streets are lined with mature trees, creating a cool, shaded environment for people who are walking. Gardens are well tended and parks are filled with trees and quiet walkways. What a lovely environment this creates throughout the city.

 

The bus tour today was almost 4 hours in length. We were quite ready to disembark when we got close to our own hotel. We passed by the restaurant where we ate last night and made a quick decision to go in for dinner (even though it was a bit early). We were happy to eat at an outside table. We had the same waiter as last night, quite a pleasant young man. We shared a salad. Jim ordered a lamb chop and I had traditional Austrian goulash. Our waiter was concerned that I might not enjoy it as it had paprika seasoning. I know he was surprised when I ate it all. It was delicious!!!

 

Back to our hotel. Jim took our laundry to a nearby laundromat and I wrote today’s account.

 

We leave Vienna in the morning for a 3 or 4 hour drive to Ljubljana, Slovenia where we will spend just one night. We are getting excited about our Adriatic Cruise which begins on Friday. Only two more stops before we board, Ljubljana and Trieste, Italy.

 

 

Tuesday, July 4, 2023

Ljubljana, Slovenia

 

We left Vienna mid morning and headed toward our next destination, Ljubljana, Slovakia. The weather was clear and the traffic light. Because of the distance we were travelling we chose to take the freeway (yes … we did choose the freeway!). Three lanes of traffic … one for trucks (speed limit 100), one for speedsters (it did not matter what the speed limit was; the cars in that lane were going faster) ; and the middle lane where we spent most of our time travelling at whatever .the speed of traffic was at that moment (it varied a lot). There were moments that it was very calm and smooth and other moments where it got a bit frenzied. One nice thing is that the trucks all had their own land and they absolutely abided by the 100 km/hour limit.

 

Most of the way along the freeway, there were either high walls or heavy and high vegetation which prevented sightseeing totally. Eventually, we stopped for a quick lunch and a short nap at one of the service centres. Our lunch consisted of a beverage and a schnitzel sandwich. Even with mustard added, it was a dry and tasteless experience. Thankfully this is the only meal we have eaten with premade food.

 

We also encountered a major change in weather. What started as a beautiful day deteriorated into a horrible thunderstorm.

Even on the fastest speed, the windshield wipers were not able to keep the window clear. But the traffic did not slow down. Yikes!!! Eventually, we drove out of the rain and soon decided that we had had enough of the freeway for one day. We took an exit onto a regular highway which took us through small towns and villages, past large agricultural fields and through some lovely forested areas. Jim took a few photos as we drive along and in one town we stopped to photograph a striking church. When we parked we realized we were right in front of a gelato shop. It did not take long to decide it was time for a cone. We thoroughly enjoyed the treat and continued our journey still licking our lips

 

In Austria and in Slovenia, one needs to purchase a special pass to travel on the freeways. We were approaching the border of Slovenia but it was not exactly clear where it was. So we stopped at a service station to inquire about buying the Slovenian pass. The employee at the station had a bit of a chuckle and told us that the first thing we needed to do was cross the border into Slovenia. Apparently we had not done that yet. He pointed to another service station within easy eyesight of his .. and that was on the other side of the border. We all laughed and we drove a few hundred metres further and crossed the border. Yes, we were able to purchase the Slovenian freeway pass because we were now in Slovenia.

Just ahead of us were a very unused customs building and a sad looking duty free shop which was locked up tight. So much for cheap alcohol when you cross a border.

 

We continued on our way along various roads (not the freeway). Soon the flat land that we had been on became quite rolling and gradually we climbed higher and higher into the hills. Open areas of land were still being cultivated with crops – corn, hay, potatoes, grapes, fruit trees, lavender, beans and more. Again, we passed through some towns and villages and noticed some substantial changes. First, the architecture of the homes is quite different. Frame buildings with specific shapes of roofs and windows, loads of flowers on porches and windowsills, and several churches in each town. We stopped to take many photos, driving through new and old neighbourhoods, admiring the colourful gardens, porches and windowsills.

 

Another change we noticed was the appearance of cemeteries. There was one near most churches. And along with the cemeteries were flower stands. At one large cemetery there were nine stands, all selling flowers and other ornaments to place upon the graves in the cemetery. Needless to say, the gravesites were very colourful and visited often.

 

Eventually, we directed out attention to actually arriving in Ljubljana. Back to the freeway we went and soon arrived at the capital of Slovenia. We went into the centre of the city to find the tourist office where Jim was able to collect some details about events and opportunities that we would have tomorrow.

 

Then, on to our hotel, once again a lovely place. We settled into our room and had dinner in the hotel restaurant. Jim’s soup was very good and my beet risotto was delicious. We finally were able to relax in our room and ready ourselves for another adventure tomorrow.

 

 

Wednesday, July 5, 2023

Ljubljana, Slovenia

 

Today began strangely. Jim had been trying to contact a doctor as today was the day he was to have his nose checked again. He received an email from one doctor suggesting that he go to the local hospital and check in at Emergency. There, an ear, nose and throat doctor would be able to see him and determine what the next steps should be. So off he went …

 

Sure enough, after triage, Jim was quickly seen by a specialist who removed the packing from his nose and sent him on his way. Writing this, it sounds like a quick procedure but it took until almost 2 pm before Jim arrived back at our hotel.

 

So, our day of seeing Ljubljana was shortened considerably. We headed off to see the sights. First, a local bakery to peruse what we might eat for lunch. Lots of options available, none of them with names we knew. We pointed to three items and they were bagged up and we were off.

 

We headed to Centro where all the main tourist activities and sights can be found. It is a delightful old town that runs along the river banks. There are at least six bridges so there is great activity and shopping on both sides of the river. Souvenir shops, quaint specialty boutiques, dozens of outdoor eateries, a gorgeous flower market and a fruit and vegetable market that was just closing down. We were just in time to purchase some fresh black cherries. Everything seems to be in season here … and we are missing the season at home.

 

From there, we walked along the river bank, enjoying the open air …. Until the thunder storm came along.  Our jackets were in the car so Jim went back and got them while I waited under an awning. It rained for quite a while which put a true damper on our stroll. We were considering taking a river cruise and someone had given us directions to an elevator that would take us down to river level. Unfortunately, we were sent in the wrong direction.

 

While we were walking back along the foot path, we saw the local tourist train pull up at its booth. The train emptied of people and we lined up to get tickets for the next tour. It was leaving again in ten minutes. Perfect!!

 

The tour was excellent – good audible commentary in English; interesting historical information, some old and some recent; a trip up the hill to the Ljubljana castle and exquisite views over the city; past museums, galleries, buskers, celebrations ....

 and the new Parliament Buildings; and then back to the centre of the old town.

 

Ljubljana’s history is quite exciting as it has been part of several countries, changing with every conflict since World War 1. Finally in 1991, Slovenia gained its full independence and became a country of its own accord. Residents are very proud of that. They are members of the EU and NATO as well.

 

Back at the river bank, we realized we had not had lunch nor had we eaten what we purchased at the bakery (now to be tomorrow’s car snack) so we looked for a place to have dinner. Lots to choose from.

 

We chose a restaurant that specialized in Slovenian dumplings, both savory and sweet. Jim and I both chose a combination meal, a soup broth with spoon bread and sausage to accompany it. Plus, a dessert dumpling to finish the meal. The broth, bread and sausage were delicious but the dessert dumpling stole the show. Jim ordered an orange dumpling with dark chocolate and I had a raspberry dumpling with dark chocolate. We shared bites and devoured both dumplings down to the last crumb.

 

We wandered back to the car and headed back to our hotel. The personable attendant in the parking lot likes us (Jim tips well) and he had saved the parking space closest to the door just for us. How lovely was that!

 

And here we are in our room reflecting on one more wonderful experience in a country we had barely heard of before coming on this trip. We would come back in a minute.

 

Tomorrow, we are off to Trieste, Italy, our final land destination. Then on Friday we board the ship for an Adriatic Cruise. Where has the time gone?

 

Thursday, July 6, 2023.

The Road to Trieste, Italy

 

We had a leisurely breakfast and packed our bags. The hotel where we have been staying in Ljubljana has been lovely in every way. The staff have been kind; the facility is very comfortable and the man in charge of parking has ensured that we had a wheelchair parking spot right next to the door both nights we were there.

 

We only have this day to enjoy and then our incredible road trip will come to an end. Our destination today is Trieste, Italy – our eighth country in 27 days – eight different languages and we knew none of them. It has been a humbling experience, relying on the people in the places we have visited to speak English as well as their own language and, in some cases, several more languages as well.

 

The trip to Trieste today was short. Of course, we avoided the freeway almost the whole way, passing through villages, agricultural land, driving on circuitous roads as we climbed and descended mountains. It was a great day to be on the road, not too warm and no rain.

 

As much to test my memory as to provide a summary, here is where we have been …

Dubrovnik, Croatia

Kotor, Montenegro

Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina

Split, Croatia

Senj, Croatia

Zagreb, Croatia

Budapest, Hungary

Bratislava, Slovakia

Vienna, Austria

Ljubljana, Slovenia

Trieste, Italy

 

We are now in Trieste, just for one night, because tomorrow we board a Holland America cruise around the Adriatic Sea. As much by plan as by coincidence, we have visited most of our ports of call on this cruise. Our goal is to enjoy a one week luxury resort vacation without leaving the ship. As we dock at each port, we will reminisce what we saw and did in that place, embed it on our memories and put our feet up on the ship.

 

This has once again been the trip of a lifetime. We have been to Italy and Austria previously but the other six countries have been new to us. I feel like we have sampled some wonderful places and need to go back to each one to more fully experience what it has to offer. Croatia and Slovenia have been our favourites. We will see what the future holds.

 

Thanks for travelling with us. You have been great companions.

 

Until next time,

Donna and Jim