The Falkland Islands

 

Saturday, February 18, 2023

 

The day began early as we headed back to the airport for an early flight to the Falkland Islands. This was an exciting day for all of us. The flight was about an hour and a half in length and soon the islands were visible before us. The flight crew was kind and helpful. Irene and I both use wheelchairs at airports due to the long walking distances. The crew took Irene first and asked me to wait until the wheelchair returned. No problem. Except that when the wheelchair returned, the steps were no longer an option and there was no lift available so … I disembarked the plane in a very unusual way. They brought an empty food truck to a door of the plane, raised it to the correct level and added a link so that the wheelchair could roll from the airplane, across the link and into the back of the food truck. The doors closed behind my attendant and me and we were lowered to ground level. From there, we crossed the tarmac and entered the airport terminal.

 

The Falklands airport is, in fact, in the middle of a British military base so everything is done according to military rules. Several forms needed to be completed; random security checks occurred; some luggage screening took place; but finally we all made it into the country. Once again, a taxi awaited us, thankfully a large one, and we headed to the main town on the island, Stanley.

 

Stanley is a long, long town, flanking the shore of a very long ocean inlet. Signs of military presence were visible all along the way – high fences; equipment and storage; bunkers; accommodation; and lots of no trespassing signs – but once we arrived in the town, much of that seemed to disappear.

 

We settled into our hotel, modest but clean and friendly. We then headed out in our rental car, a very large SUV. So large and high that it was actually very difficult to get in. Jim found a tool box in the truck that we used as a step stool.

 

First, we drove to the tiny Stanley Airport (FIGAS), a few kilometers from town, to ensure that we knew where it was and that we understood clearly when we needed to be there and how much luggage we were allowed. Planes from this area fly to several smaller islands. The flights are arranged based on who wants to go where so the schedule is not finalized until the afternoon of the day before your flight. Because of the size of the plane, luggage is very limited. Passengers need to report the weight of their luggage about 2 hours before flight time. If your luggage is overweight, they simply leave it on the runway unless you have accurately reported it and paid for any excess baggage. And every person needed to be weighed before boarding the plane to balance the weight in the plane by assigning specific seats. Very strict rules.

 

After we left the airport, we stopped several times along times seashore. The sun was gleaming on the water; there were surfers in the water; the waves breaking on the shore were beautiful and we encountered a sand beach, the likes of which we have not seen for a long time (Sauble Beach notwithstanding). It was a delightful drive and we saw lots of different birds.

 

From there, we followed the Stanley Bypass which made us chuckle since it seems to us that a town the size of Stanley really does not need a bypass. At the other end of the town, we wound our way downhill to the shore again. We encountered many new subdivisions that are being developed, stretching the town along the shore. (Apparently, the Falkland Islands government is endeavouring to provide a home for every person or family n the islands, regardless of financial means.) We also encountered many statues and monuments that chronicled historical events, ranging from the early history of explorers to the more recent wars, including Argentina. There were several wharfs where craft, large and small, were moored. And finally some government buildings and a tiny post office.

 

We happened upon a large school where a few cars were parked. Timing is everything. As we drove in, three women were coming out of the building, carrying large cooking pots. It turns out the women were all teachers at this school that students from 11 – 16 years old attend. Once a student turns 16, schooling in the Falklands comes to an end. For post-secondary education, students must travel to the UK, New Zealand, Australia or other places. The UK government covers the costs of students who study in Britain. That is quite an incentive. The teachers were at the school on Saturday because they were preparing food for an event occurring in another part of the community.

 

We continued our drive until we reached The Narrows Bar and Restaurant. We had been told that they serve the finest fish and chips and calamari in town. And they also served beer. The reports were accurate – fish and chips, calamari – delicious!!! Even Jim’s lamb curry was worth reordering again. The beer and shandy were quite good as well.

 

Then it was time to head back to our hotel to repack our things for our flight tomorrow. And a good night’s sleep. Tomorrow will begin another new adventure.

 

Sunday, September 19, 2023

 

We arose this morning from our comfortable bed and packed our bags once more. We are on the move again. Following an amazing English breakfast, we took another drive around Stanley. The waterfront drive where we saw a large squid boat at anchor in the harbour; a side street where we found Victory Bar where there was an offer of a ‘Husband Creche’. “Tired of having your husband around? Just drop him off here, pay for his drinks and we will take care of him all day!” 

A stop for a look at the cruise port; a tour along a street with beautiful local photographs, some taken by children as young as 9. We topped the car up with fuel and headed out to the airport for our flight to Sea Lion Island where we will spend the next three days.

 

Sea Lion Island is among the smallest islands in the Falklands and has a great number of penguins along with other wildlife. A nine seat plane transported us over the southern ocean on a 35 minute flight to Sea Lion. What we found at Sea Lion was quite amazing. The island is tiny. From the air it is possible to see the entire island. There is not a single tree on the island. There are only 5 buildings on the island – the lodge where we are staying, the home of the owner, Mickey, two outbuildings, and the housing for three seasonal staff. At first glance, this place looks totally desolate and we are here for 3 days.

 

After a gentle landing on a sandy runway, we were warmly greeted by staff from the tiny lodge at the plane and escorted to the lodge. 

Along the way, we had to bathe the soles of our shoes in an antiseptic wash to prevent inadvertently importing virus and bacteria to the island. Biodiversity protection is a priority.

Once inside the lodge, we were surrounded by very comfortable facilities and furniture. The lodge can accommodate about 25 guests. During our stay there will be only 15 people. We had an introductory meeting about how the lodge operates and where best to see wildlife. It became clear that one need only look out the window to see more than about 200 penguins gathering at the end of their day at sea. It was a bedlam of black and white, moving in every direction. Young penguins waiting eagerly for the moms to bring them food from the sea. Young penguins playing a game of chase up and down the hill. A long parade of penguins marching one by one from the beach to the gathering place up a long hill. Without even stepping outside, we already had a wonderful introduction to what the next three days would bring.

 

After the meeting ended and we were settled into our room, Jim headed out to explore some of the pathways to various beaches, each beach being the home to a colony of penguins –  Magellanic, Gentoo, Macaroni, Southern Rockhopper, and King.  In addition to all the penguins, there is a high probability of seeing orcas, seals, sea lions, and elephant seals in the waters and on the beaches encircling this island. Also, several species of birds live here – cormorants, caracara, Cobb’s wrens and others. What a wonderful place to spend a few days and explore the pathways and beaches.

 

Soon, it was dinner time when all the guests gathered together at tables in the dining room. We were served a delicious three course meal. An honesty bar is adjacent to the dining room where we are invited to help ourselves to wine, beer and other beverages and simply note on a paper what we had and who we are.

 

Following dinner, many of the guests gathered in the sitting room to share stories about the day and tell tales about other travels they have done. It was a lively and entertaining conversation.

 

And then to bed … another full and exciting day awaits us tomorrow.

 

Monday, February 20, 2023

 

This new day began with a lovely breakfast, served in the dining room. It was fun to see all of our fellow guests and hear about their plans for the day. It is a bright and sunny morning so most people were eager to get outside and head to the beaches for wildlife viewing. For Jim, the priorities were more elephant seals, sea lions and magellanic penguins. Off he went. His bright orange jacket enabled me to watch him along the path until he disappeared behind the long tufted grass.

 

He returned, very excited, to report all of his discoveries. Loads of gentoo penguins, including many babies; elephant seals in complete families; sea lions; magellanic penguins; cormorants, geese and caracaras. The baby gentoos were entering the sea water for the first time. Timid at first and running back onto shore. Eventually, they gathered their courage and swam further into the water. They need to develop independence in food and mobility.

 

Gentoo Penguin

Magellanic Penguin

Mickey, our host, arranged to take our party of three on a 4-wheel drive excursion around the island to each of the beaches. It was amazing to see the birds and wildlife, especially the rockhopper penguins, basking high on a cliff in the bright sunshine.

 

Rockhopper Penguin

Along with the wildlife, we were fascinated by the vegetation and the soil structure. Up to the mid 1900s, much of this island was used for agriculture, mainly sheep and cattle. The natural grasses were removed and replaced with new grasses and grains. After the agriculture was discontinued, the natural grasses (tussock grass) were replanted. It has been a struggle for the natural grass to overcome the vegetation that replaced them. Some of the agricultural grasses still overpower the natural grasses and form small fields.

 

Various mosses and lichens provide ground cover as well as colour when the tiny flowers bloom in bright pink, vivid yellow and orange.

 

The soil takes many forms. Much of it is peat, sometimes up to 3 metres deep. Some is regular soil and there is a great deal of rock. The four wheel drive track was very rugged with deep, deep ruts and holes. I give great credit to Mickey for his skill in navigating the track. We did not get stuck; we did not tip over; and we were all reasonably comfortable throughout the three hour tour.

 

The evening included a pleasant conversation with other guests at the lodge. After returning to our room, we spent some time reviewing the photos we have taken, culling the blurry ones and choosing between the duplicates. Thus ends another great day on Sea Lion Island.

 

Tuesday, February 21, 2023

 

Another lovely start to our day under spectacular blue sky weather. This is our last full day on Sea Lion Island. Shortly after breakfast, Jim and Irene headed out on a walk to South Beach, passing 3 colonies of gentoo and magellanic penguins, numbering the thousands. Most of the penguins were juveniles since the adult penguins were already fishing in the sea. Moulting occurs at this time of year, transforming the juveniles from their initial brownish colour, good for camouflage, to the white and black patterns of the adults.

Jim and Irene passed by three penguin colonies on their way to the beach. Once moulting has been completed, juvenile penguins are taken to the water (a pond or the sea) to learn how to swim. The juveniles in the colony closest to the pond  were frolicking about, chasing one another, swimming in the pond. Often they emerged from the water with their beautiful white feathers totally covered in mud. Other colonies took their young ones to the sea. There were hundreds of young penguins being encouraged by their parents to enter the water and try to swim. This is critical in order for the penguins to become independent in finding their food. One of the challenges they face is the crashing of waves close to the shore as they enter the water.

 

In addition to seeing the penguins on their way to the South beach, Jim and Irene saw many of pairs of Upland and Ruddy-headed geese. The Upland Geese are easily identifiable by their lifelong partnerships – the male is white and the female is brown. Ruddy-headed geese are all the same colour, a bronze colour.

 

Walking from the South Beach to the North Beach necessitated a crossing of some large sand dunes. As they climbed the dunes, Jim and Irene heard rumbling sounds and soon saw large numbers of elephant seals, resting in the sand. The noises and their enormous size were quite intimidating. When they open their large mouths with four huge teeth, the seals look quite formidable. 

However, it is comforting to know that they eat squid, not people. The male uses his four teeth to discourage other males who might take an interest in his harem. A male encounter can lead to a bloody brawl in which the loser of the battle moves away, bleeding from the bites of the winner of the fight.

 

Along the North Beach, there were many birds on the shore or in the water. An especially interesting bird is the white two-banded plover which balances on one foot. Initially, Jim and Irene thought it had lost a leg. Then it put its second leg down and ran across the sand. Along the North Beach as well was another gentoo penguin colony. A special treat in this colony were the two king penguins who had arrived in the same location. King penguins are distinguishable by their large size and their bright yellow bibs and gold feathers on the sides of their heads.

King Penguin

 

Returning to the lodge for lunch, the walkers encountered yet another penguin colony, a magellanic colony this time. Magellanic penguins live in burrows. Some of the penguins in this colony were in or near their burrows as Jim and Irene passed by.

 

After such a long walk, the afternoon was a time for rest and recuperation.

 

After dinner, Mickey, our host, offered to take us for a drive to the crest of the bank at each beach. It was a very exciting drive. As we travelled across the island and along the cliffs overlooking the beaches we saw  many different types of birds and sea animals: penguins, of course, including the King Penguins; elephant seals on two beaches, actually moving about in the water; several orcas some distance from the shore; a seal; geese and other birds. As the finale to our evening drive, we stopped a gentoo colony to simply watch the crowd. Many gentoo were very curious about our vehicle and approached with great interest. Of course, we took many photos. They are very cute birds. Eventually caracaras (birds) began dive-bombing the colony, apparently simply to tease the penguins. The penguins responded by chasing them away. Clearly this is a regular occurrence.

 

Then, just the sun set, we headed back to the lodge. What a terrific to end our day.

 

Sadly, it was time to pack our bags as we fly back to Stanley first thing tomorrow morning. Sea Lion has been a magical to spend time.