Punta Arenas (again) to Ushuaia

 

Sunday, February 26, 2023

 

This day started early in Punta Arenas. We were booked on a morning ferry and needed to be at the port no later than 8 am. We also had to stop on the way to feed the car. It seemed an easy thing to do but the service station was only offering gas at three of the twelve pumps that were there. And the attendants were less than helpful in indicating which pumps were working. After our shift to the third pump and a trip into the shop, finally one of the attendants agreed to put gas in the car. This being a new car to us and an unfamiliar car to the attendant, none of us knew where to find the lever to open the tank. The clock was ticking; anxiety about time was increasing; and no fuel had been added to the tank. The Spanish car manual was not helpful and the attendant walked away. Finally, after touching almost every button and lever on the console and under the seat, Jim hit the jackpot and the fuel tank cover opened. The attendant returned and the car was filled with fuel. Whew!!! We still made it on time for the ferry.

 

This ferry was a two hour ride across a channel of water that would save us about four hours of driving. Although the weather was cool and rainy, the water was calm. It was a pleasant way to begin our journey to Rio Grande, the capital of the island of Tierra del Fuego. I remember learning about Tierra del Fuego in a school geography class. It was a dot on a map and now I am actually here. Another ‘pinch me’ moment.

 

After a quick lunch at a local café, the only café open in this tiny town, we headed out on the highway and enjoyed the vast tracts of land that extended on both sides of the road. Although a different part of Argentina, the landscape here was very similar to what we had seen when we first visited this country. Huge treeless fields covered in low vegetation of many colours ranging from bright green to dusty yellow to rust brown. The land was fenced along the highway with an occasional gate that marked the entrance to a ranch. I cannot begin to guess how many acres or square miles these ranches must have. We primarily saw sheep, cattle and horses in what seemed to be small numbers given the size of the territory they occupied.

We also began to see wildlife, especially the guanacos we had ‘met’ before. Deer-like creatures, they were fleet of foot and able to jump a fence as easily as any animal we have seen.  More than a few times, we had to slow the car down to avoid hitting them as they grazed along the shoulders of the road. It was clearly calving season and many mother/baby pairs were visible from our car windows. Of course, the cameras were busy and our speed slowed substantially.

 

Other wildlife included many bird species including the familiar Upland Geese we have seen in many places. We also saw some hare and one elusive fox. Foxes in some regions are particularly dangerous for baby penguins, killing them as food. One region has addressed this problem by seeding the area with meat alternatives, lacing them with spicy tastes. This has worked well and the foxes have actually left that area and no longer bother the baby penguins. This especially champions the king penguin population in the area. No foxes were injured or killed with this solution … even better.

 

For a very long time our road was beautifully paved with yellow lines marking the lanes. We were flanking the coast of an inland passage and thoroughly enjoying the drive. Unexpectedly, the lovely paved road came to an abrupt end and heavy gravel replaced it. Although the scenery continued to be spectacular, the journey was far less comfortable and the driver (me) had to pay much closer attention to the road. Fortunately traffic was light and the gravel was reasonably graded, unlike a previous experience where we had to turn back.

 

In due course, we found pavement again … to be very short-lived because it was at this exact location that we needed to change roads in order to get to the King Penguin colony we wanted to visit. Only 18 more kilometres of gravel road in … and the same 18 kilometres of gravel road out. But who is counting??

 

The King Penguin colony was another highlight of the trip. In this case, the Kings were living in a grassy area, quite close to the sea. So they were able to make their way to the water to feed and return to pass along their catch to the baby penguins who were not yet ready to take on the waves.

One of the things that makes this colony unique is that, for reasons unknown, this is the only king penguin colony that has settled on the mainland and not on an island. There is evidence that there were penguins in this area about 600 years ago. There is a belief that the current penguins have settled here because of this ancestry. There is no scientific evidence to support this belief … yet. But there is certainly a lot of penguin research underway.

 

We carried on toward Rio Grande, thankfully finding paved road for the remainder of our journey. Using google maps, we easily found our accommodation and after a quick trip to a supermarket (open on a Sunday evening), we were set for the night. Another pleasant but compact two bedroom minimalist apartment.

 

Tomorrow will be another day!

 

Monday, February 27, 2023

 

Our goal was to be in the car and travelling by about 10 am. We almost made it. There were a few stops in Rio Grande before we actually made it to the highway. The Tourist Office was the main event; then topping the car up with gas (never leave a city without a full tank); and finally a few photos stops of monuments, flags, and buildings.

 

We were finally on our way to Ushuaia, almost at the southern tip of South America. The itinerary included open plains, oceanside roads and snow-capped mountains. Irene had prepared snacks and a lunch for us to eat along the way.

 

The drive to Ushuaia was ostensibly 3 – 4 hours in length. Of course, it took us longer than that. First we drove through open plains, fenced to keep the sheep, horses and cattle off the road. Fences do not deter the guanaco in any way. As I have written before, they love to graze on the roadsides and easily hop over a fence with great ease and grace. So a watchful eye on the roadsides is important we as travel along.

 

Since the previous time we were in Argentina, many young guanaco have been born. Mothers and babies stayed within close range of one another. Clearly the young animals were taking instruction on how to survive on the grasses that are available and how to steer clear of cars. As we drove along we were lucky enough to see one baby suckling his mom. It was definitely an ‘awwww’ moment.

 

We could see mountains in the distance and the landscape changed dramatically as we approached them. To this point, we had not seen a single tree in the fields of Argentina. But suddenly, there were trees in small  groups. We were certain that these groves had been planted as an experiment to see how well trees would thrive in this climate and soil.  But as we drive further north, it became clear that the now forests of trees had not been planted but were growing there naturally. We had to revise our understanding of the vegetation in this vast country. It took some adjustment not to see the vast plains and, instead, travel along the roadway through thick forests.

 

Then we began to climb the foothills of the Southern Andes. Small rivers trickled through the forests and wildflowers adorned the roadsides. We came upon Lake Fagnano close to the road and surrounded by the mountains. We decided to take a secondary road to get closer to the shore of the lake.

 

Although the main highway was climbing the mountains and this secondary road was certainly travelling downhill, we felt confident that somewhere along the way, the two roads would merge and we would be back on the main highway. How wrong we were!!! It had rained in the area earlier in the day and the gravel road was pitted with huge holes filled with rain water. We slowed our pace and bumped along until we reached one particular place where passing through the puddles seemed a risky proposition. We were quite far off the main highway and if we got bogged down, it seemed unlikely that anyone would come by to rescue us. We could also see that the main highway was now high above us, a climb that would be intimidating on the rugged road we were now on.

 

So … being sensible (sometimes we are bigger risk takers), we turned the car around and bumped our way back to our original location. I will say I was quite relieved when we once again reached the main highway without any mishaps.

 

And so we climbed the mountain … the road would around the rocky facades and took us to a look out from which we could see the lake that we had just driven past. It was very impressive from above and also incredibly large. We continued along the highway. There were a few look outs but there were no services anywhere along the whole stretch from Rio Grande to Ushuaia: no cafes, no stores, no homes and no bathrooms.

 

For the last half hour or so we had the pleasure of following a very heavy dump truck that struggled to make it up the slopes and slowly proceeded down the slopes. The signage indicated that slow speeds were safe speeds. The lanes for most of the distance were divided by double yellow lines … no passing!! Vehicles behind us one by one chose not to follow us or the truck and, in spite of the double lines, passed both of us. It was more than a little frightening, not knowing what might appear in the oncoming lane. Fortunately there were no mishaps to report.

 

The scenery was spectacular along the way, snow-capped peaks and valleys and deep fissures and valleys. We were really travelling through the Andes, the magnificent South American mountain range that we had studied in school. Another ‘pinch me’ moment.

 

Soon, we reached Ushuaia and found our accommodation for the next three nights. It is a lovely two bedroom apartment, high on a hill overlooking the city and the sea. The kitchen is well equipped and the shower is large and lovely (something we have not always enjoyed on this trip).

 

After moving our luggage in, we drove through the core of the city, stopping at a café that our landlord recommended. It was a much needed break and a coffee as well. Refreshed, we drove along the waterfront and enjoyed the colours of the many yachts in the harbour. Colour is a huge feature in the design and appearance of homes, apartment buildings, industrial complexes and business facilities. The array of colours throughout a city creates a bright and cheerful environment. No one seems to be concerned whether neighbourhoods are cohesive or coordinated. Any colour, anywhere seems to be the pattern. What wonderful places these cities are.

 

Jim found the tourist office and collected information about things to do in and around Ushuaia. We will begin our exploration of the area tomorrow. It will be very pleasant to be in the same place for three nights.

 

Tuesday, February 28, 2023

 

Wow!! How can it already be the end of February!?! In Ushuaia, I have to admit it feels a bit like the end of February as well. Although it is the waning days of summer here, we are dressed in long pants, winter coats and still feeling chilly. The high temperature here during the summer months is about 16 degrees C and in winter, the average is 3 degrees C. In both cases, the proximity to the ocean and cold Arctic winds plays a part. It was especially windy today and we could feel the chill.

 

The day got off to a slow start. We are enjoying our little apartment here – 2 bedrooms, a nice sized kitchen and a comfortable sitting area with a direct view over the bay to the distant mountains. Finally, we made our way to the car and ran a couple of errands. Irene wanted to do some tourist shopping and Jim and I wanted to check out a museum and a laundry. We also picked up our bus tickets for a city tour later in the afternoon. Then we met Irene at the designated spot and came back to the apartment for lunch.

 

After lunch, Irene and I both had a nap while Jim continued to plan our next few days. Then, it was time for our tour of Ushuaia. We boarded the double decker bus and were thrilled to learn that the commentary for the tour was being done by a fluent English speaker. The tour took us along the waterfront, through the business area, past several monuments (monuments are a big item all through Chile and Argentina), through some interesting residential areas (the rich, the poor and a myriad of beautiful new public housing). The sun shone and all around us the snow on the mountains gleamed. There is almost no where in Ushuaia that you cannot cast your eyes on the southern Andes. We stopped at a ‘mirador’ (look out) to for a view of the entire city, waterfront and mountains. It was spectacular!!!

 

The bus returned to the waterfront right across from the Museum of the End of the World, one of two buildings. The second building was closed due to some emergency repairs so we were not able to visit that one. The good news about this was that the second building was where you had to buy your tickets but, since it was closed today, the other building was free. Displays included information about some historical events, a significant shipwreck and the rescue of its crew, and a model of the first legislature  including furniture when Argentina returned to being a democracy (1983). There was also a series of documents related to the Malvinas (The Falkland Islands) and why they were still truly a part of Argentina. It is interesting how vehemently that belief is held and promoted in Patagonia (Southern Argentina).

 

We crossed the street and visited a wonderful artisan market. The artisans were in a long hallway of stalls, each displaying the work they had created. Jewellery, knitted items (sheep, llama and angora), photographs, sculptures, painted stones, penguins of many materials and sizes, of course. It was fun to look at the various items and, yes, we did make a few purchases to bring home.

 

And then it was time to go home. A less strenuous day to be sure but we enjoyed it and appreciated a dinner of store-bought frozen pizza for dinner. The evening was relaxing and a good night’s sleep is in order.

 

Wednesday, March 1

 

It was a quiet morning with each of us engaging in personal activities – reading, catching up on email, writing a grocery list, phoning a friend, running an errand and so on. We regrouped about noon, made a picnic lunch and headed out for the afternoon. The destination today was Tierra del Fuego National Park. It is actually very close to Ushuaia so it did not take long to get to the park boundary. The park is fairly new so marked trails and other facilities are just being developed. The park is fully forested and surrounded by magnificent mountains. No matter where you look there are towering peaks and gleaming glaciers.

 

One location that is fully developed and very popular is the ‘End of the World’ post office. It is ostensibly located on the furthest south point of land in South America. Beyond this point lie only islands, water and boats. Of course, there is a small shop on site to purchase postcards and stamps with the requisite mailbox close at hand. We each wrote a few postcards and mailed them from this place. I actually think we will arrive home earlier than any of the postcards will arrive.

 

Too tempting to resist, Jim waved his hands through the Beagle Channel water (not as cold as he expected) and our travelling companion, Irene, actually took her shoes and socks off and waded almost knee deep into the water. Of course, we have photos as evidence that this occurred.

 

We decided to have lunch at this location. Gleaming water from the the Beagle Channel was glorious and the snowcapped mountains across the waves were amazing. Always fascinated by international borders, it was not lost on us that the mountains we were admiring were not in Argentina at all but actually in Chile. This point was also made by the fact that Argentina had raised its flag on a deserted island in the middle of the Beagle Channel. As with the Falkland Islands, Argentina is very possessive and aggressive about their borders.

 

Another significant point of interest in the park is the end of Highway 3. This highway begins in Buenos Aires and runs the entire length of Argentina, 2308 kilometres. The highway ends in the park and marks another boundary with Chile. No border crossing here but a beautiful lookout and three signs that claim the Falkland Islands (the Malvines) as theirs.

 

A highlight of our afternoon was the End of the World train trip, about an hour long on narrow gauge tracks in a circuit through some of this vast park. The commentary was minimal in English and Spanish but the life in the forest was interesting. Since most of the Argentina we have seen to this point is treeless plains, being among the trees was a new experience. Mountain streams descended from the heights around us. Fallen trees punctuated the forest floor. Wild flowers thrived in places where the sun shone through the trees. All in all a great way to spend an hour.

 

It was after 6 pm when we turned the car toward Ushuaia again. Many people were hiking on the long road out of the park and it was starting to rain. We invited one woman who was walking alone to join us in the car. She was grateful for the ride. We are not sure how she would have made it all the way out of the park before dark and were happy to help her reach her destination. She spoke only Spanish and we spoke English so it was a quiet car ride.

 

A quick trip to the supermarket (never as quick as it is at home as all the products and organization are different) and we actually set the GPS to take us ‘home’. Bacon and eggs, breakfast for dinner, was fast and easy and we actually watched a program on Netflix, the first time since we left home that we have turned a television on.

 

Now, once again it is late and time for bed. A new days begins in just a few hours.

 

Thursday, March 2, 2023

 

I think we must all be tired. We slept in quite late, had a leisurely breakfast, discussed plans for tomorrow when we leave Ushuaia, and finally got ourselves organized to go out for the rest of the day.

 

Our first stop was the post office to mail a postcard to a friend. I am quite sure we will be home before the postcard arrives.

 

Then, our piece de resistance for the day. We were going out for lunch at one of the most highly recommended restaurants in Ushuaia,  Maria Lolo Restaurant. It had received excellent reviews on Trip Advisor and was listed in other places as one of the top ten restaurants in this city. It sits high on a cliff overlooking the lower town and the Beagle Passage with the snow covered Andes in the distance.

 

As soon as we walked in we knew we would not be disappointed. We were greeted with courtesy and respect and shown to  a table that had a perfect view through a window. Our waiter brought menus that had a range of choices – seafood, fish, meat dishes - along with a selection of appetizers and delectable desserts. The wine list was large for full bottles; somewhat less so for glasses of wine.

 

We started with a shared appetizer of lamb pate. It was delicious. Jim ordered a roasted pork main; Irene had asparagus soup; and I ordered a second appetizer that included octopus, king crab, salmon and scallops, each marinated in a unique sauce. We were all thrilled with our food and enjoyed it thoroughly. We each had a glass of wine to accompany the meal.

The dessert menu was intriguing with many items including fruit and berries from Patagonia. Again, we each ordered something different – cheesecake with Patagonian fruit topping; caramel mousse with hazelnut and chocolate; and Jim had a serving of calafate ice cream with marinated apple pieces on top. Again … delicious and beautifully presented.

 

We topped the meal off with cappuccinos. They were also customized to the restaurant and had chocolate coating swirled on the inside of the clear mugs. Delightful to look at and delicious to drink. Overall, it was an exquisite experience.

 

Following lunch, we decided to drive southeast out of the city,  direction we had not explored before. From our apartment, we can see the airport, located in that direction. The airport sits on a peninsula across the water. We were hoping to drive past the airport and along the peninsula as far as the road would take us. When we arrived at the airport, we discovered that all roads that extend beyond the airport are blocked and held as military land. The shoreline of peninsula where the airport is located is Beagle Channel, the boundary between Chile and Argentina. Argentina is deeply committed to protecting its boundaries so it is not surprising that the area was out of bounds.

 

Interesting that the airport is named Aeropuerta Internacional de Ushuaia Malvinas Argentinas.

Once again, it is clear that Argentina still lies claim to the Malvinas (the Falklands). Another sign at the airport proclaimed that Ushuaia is the capital city of the Malvinas. We live in interesting times, to be sure.

 

From the airport, we wandered by road through a few neighbourhoods, commenting on the variety of housing that exists side by side – modern new builds adjacent to old apartment blocks. New apartment complexes beside very tired rundown homes. Single family dwellings and large homes renovated to create tiny apartments. Red, green, bright blue, purple, yellow and orange colours are used indiscriminately, creating a rainbow old housing all along the same street.

We also came upon a cemetery near the water's edge. On a hill above the cemetery was a Jewish memorial commemorating people from that faith. 

 

Construction is rampant in the city, both in older sections where tear-downs and renovations are evident, as well as new builds in areas that have not previously been developed. Ushuaia is clearly a city in transition. If we were to come back here in five years, I expect that we would see a much different city than exists today. The tourist trade is growing rapidly and facilities and a support network are quickly developing. As more tourism money flows into the city, so will more people to fill the new jobs. More modern stores will no doubt emerge and some of the corner stores that now dot the landscape will likely disappear. We are glad that we have come to visit now before the city is fully modernized.

 

A quick stop at a panaderia (bakery) and then home to our very comfortable accommodation. A light dinner, some packing up (clean laundry to pick up as well) and a quiet evening of Netflix. Yes, we can get it here. And, of course, writing this blog.

 

Tomorrow will find us on another new adventure.